Consumer pressure is crucial in persuading the fashion industry to take green issues and corporate social responsibility (CSR) seriously, according to a new report from just-style.

The just-style Green Report suggests that, while there is a strong interest in green issues among fashion companies and retailers, the “silent majority” of the industry has “politely ignored” the demands of CSR.

Furthermore, governments and pressure groups feel that they can only try to persuade the industry to be responsible, rather than taking firm action, the report finds. “The industry itself is split between the silent majority, who think it is none of their business (they are tasked with making money) and the vocal minority who either take a moral stance or equate sustainability with good business practice,” it says.

The key questions posed by the report include whether companies are acting ethically, whether what they sell is produced sustainably, whether the trade is conducted in a fair manner, and whether companies behave with corporate social responsibility.

It examines these issued by analysing the action taken by three main groups: governments and other authorities; individuals and pressure groups; and the companies themselves.

And the report also considers whether compliance is a moral issue or good business practice, and whether being seen to be green is a marketing tool.

A survey of just-style subscribers revealed that the overwhelming majority – 83.5% – were interested or very interested in green issues, but only 50% were actually involved in green issues. Furthermore, some respondents cannot separate the areas of ethics, sustainability and Fairtrade.

When it comes to who should take responsibility for greenness, although about two-thirds of respondents think it is a matter for the industry, there is a broad split between those who think the area taking the lead should be the supply chain, the consumer or the retailer.

The report suggests that fashion retailers and clothing brands, while sharing a belief in ethical behaviour, still have problems in managing the ethics of their suppliers – resulting in periodical “exposés” by journalists about the way some products are manufactured and sourced.

A critical analysis of the role of the various pressure groups is offered, suggesting that many have confusing identities that blur the lines between ethics, sustainability and Fairtrade.

For instance, ethical groups like EJF, says the report, are also involved with Fairtrade, while the Fairtrade Foundation is deeply into sustainability – and the Centre for Sustainable Fashion (CSF) has a strong focus on ethics.

“All of these pressure groups seem to be confused about their identity and are confusing the public,” the report concludes.

The argument is that this confusion, coupled with the lack of strong action and leadership from government and other statutory authorities, means that it is left to the consumer to exert the greatest pressure on companies and retailers to act in a sustainable, ethical and green manner.

“The fact that neither government nor pressure groups feel they can exert more than a high-tone moral sanction on industry means that the only remaining pressure on behaving with CSR has to come from the consumer,” says the report. “That sanction is refusing to buy the product.”

For more information on the report, click here