Sustainability in performance apparel: meeting the demands of an eco-conscious marketplace

Published: February 2010

Publisher: Textiles Intelligence

Product ref: 87344

Pages: 43

Format: PDF

ISBN: 978-1-849780-42-1

Delivery: Immediate download

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Report description

The performance apparel industry has often been singled out for the damage its operations cause to the environment, and for the poor working conditions in some of the factories it uses. However, many of the leading brand companies and their suppliers have responded positively to such criticism in a bid to satisfy the demands of an increasingly eco-conscious marketplace. Some firms have gone even further and have shown a genuine commitment to protecting the planet by reducing their carbon footprint and pursuing socially responsible policies in every aspect of their businesses.

Many companies have sought to minimise the impact of their operations on the environment by using recycled materials and offering recyclable products. Some are trying out new materials, processes and technologies which hold the promise of reducing pollution, increasing energy efficiency and minimising waste. A growing number are incorporating less conventional eco-friendly fibres such as bamboo and organic cotton—as well as materials made from biopolymers rather than polymers derived from petrochemicals. Greater attention is being paid to the safety of dyestuffs used in coloration, while emerging technologies such as nanotechnology and plasma technology are providing opportunities for the industry to use more sustainable methods of manufacture.

Consumers are playing their part in reducing the carbon footprint of performance apparel by buying increasing quantities organic clothing, using more eco-friendly clothing care methods, and recycling unwanted garments. Governments, too, are playing an active role in steering the performance apparel industry away from unsustainable practices, while environmental groups and lobbyists are working to ensure that such practices are highly publicised and condemned.

Companies are acknowledging that sustainability has become a necessity rather than an option, given the threat of climate change. Also, they are recognising that they can gain a competitive edge by showing that they are committed to environmentally and socially responsible practices. However, a major challenge is to ensure that such commitment is echoed throughout the industry’s long and highly complex supply chains. Good progress has been made in cleaning up the industry, and the future is bright for those companies which put sustainability high on their agendas. But greater efforts are needed to increase awareness among consumers about the green credentials of the products they buy. Better and more comprehensive labelling could play a greater role in providing such information.

SUMMARY
INTRODUCTION
Outlook
CHALLENGES TO SUSTAINABILITY IN THE PERFORMANCE APPAREL INDUSTRY
ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT OF FIBRE PRODUCTION AND TEXTILE PROCESSING BY
FIBRE TYPE
Cotton
Wool
Synthetic fibres
Cellulosic fibres
ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT OF CHEMICAL USAGE IN THE PERFORMANCE
APPAREL INDUSTRY
ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT OF WATER AND ENERGY USAGE IN THE
PERFORMANCE APPAREL INDUSTRY
ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT OF WATER AND ENERGY USAGE IN THE
TRANSPORTATION AND RETAILING OF PERFORMANCE APPAREL
Transportation
Retailing
WATER AND ENERGY USE IN CLOTHING CARE
ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT OF WASTE GENERATION
Pre-consumer waste
Post-consumer waste
WORKING CONDITIONS AND SUSTAINABILITY IN THE PERFORMANCE APPAREL
INDUSTRY
KEY DRIVERS OF SUSTAINABILITY INITIATIVES
Change in consumer attitudes towards the environment
Government legislation and its effect on the textile industry's environmental policies
Integrated Pollution Prevention and Control (IPPC)
Registration, Evaluation and Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH)
Campaigns by non-governmental organisations (NGOs)
WAYS OF ACHIEVING SUSTAINABILITY IN THE PERFORMANCE APPAREL
INDUSTRY
FIBRES AND FABRICS WITH ECO-FRIENDLY PROPERTIES
Bamboo
Biophyl
Castor oil seeds
Cocona
Hemp
Ingeo
Lenpur
Lyocell
Milkofil
Organic cotton
Nettle
Recycled polyester
S.Café
Soya silk
DYES WITH ECO-FRIENDLY PROPERTIES
Low impact dyes
Fibre-reactive dyes
Natural dyes
ECO-FRIENDLY FABRIC TREATMENTS
Elimination of potentially hazardous substances
SUSTAINABLE CLOTHING CARE
RECYCLING OF PERFORMANCE APPAREL
ETHICAL SOCIAL STANDARDS
Ethical Trading Initiative
Clean Clothes Campaign
Play Fair
CERTIFICATION AND LABELLING OF SUSTAINABLE PERFORMANCE APPAREL
Öko-Tex
Bluesign
Global Organic Textile Standard
SUSTAINABILITY PROGRAMMES MAINTAINED BY KEY PERFORMANCE APPAREL
SUPPLIERS: ADIDAS, COLUMBIA SPORTSWEAR, NIKE, PATAGONIA AND WALMART
Adidas
Guidelines and training programmes for suppliers
Awards
Columbia Sportswear
Nike
Patagonia
Wal-Mart
EXAMPLES OF SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTS AND TECHNOLOGIES FROM ASICS,
COLOREP, DOW CORNING AND DEVAN CHEMICALS, NILIT, OPTIMER BRANDS,
CORNELL UNIVERSITY, HENRI LLOYD, SWANY AMERICA, TEIJIN FIBERS AND
UNIFI
Asics: eco-friendly running apparel
Colorep: AirDye
Dow Corning and Devan Chemicals: eco-friendly textile fabric treatment
Nilit: eco-friendly nylon yarn
Optimer Brands: eco-friendly yarn
Cornell University: recycled cotton fibres
Henri Lloyd: recycled jacket
Swany America: recyclable ski glove
Teijin Fibers: Eco Circle polyester recycling programme
Unifi: recycled fibres and yarns
List of tables
Table 1: Environmental and social impacts across the life cycle of performance apparel
Table 2: Environmental analysis of textile manufacturing
Table 3: Chemicals used in fabric production
Table 4: Differences between conventional cotton and organic cotton
List of figures
Figure 1: Energy profile of a T-shirt