Speaking with style: Dieter Braun, MD, Triumph International

Underwear, lingerie and swimwear manufacturer Triumph International celebrates its 125th anniversary in 2011. Here the company’s managing director and co-owner Dieter Braun, and Jörg Wagner from the Corporate Process Organisation (CPO) department in charge of global CAD and CAM, tell just-style about their formula for success.

Triumph International, which has around 40,000 staff and operates nearly 50 subsidiaries across the globe, has charted numerous milestones in the lingerie and corsetry industry since its founding in 1886.

And everything suggests the company behind brands such as Triumph, Sloggi, Valisère and HOM will continue to lead the way forward in the future.

just-style: Triumph International is one of a small number of German and European underwear manufacturers dating from the 1870s who have been able to continually re-position themselves to secure their survival. However, it is also the only firm to have made it as an international player. What did your company do differently – and apparently better?

Dieter Braun: First of all, I should point out that it may not actually be everyone’s ‘cup of tea’ to move onto the international stage with such steadfast consistency as we did.

But putting that aside, from the pioneering spirit of the company founders through to the modern day we have always liked being the first and have always considered the needs of our consumers – which certainly had a positive impact on the company.

A strategy oriented to exports virtually from the word go, and early entry onto the Asian markets were other milestones setting the tone early on.

[Note: The first Triumph branch opened in Hong Kong in 1960; in 1964 the company launched in Japan, immediately followed by Singapore, Taiwan and Malaysia in 1968; since 1985 the company has had a presence in China; and in 2001 it established its own organisation in India.]

In times of economic crisis this can also inevitably mean painful downsizing of production capacities. But our global presence in sourcing and distribution are without doubt helping to counter this at a time when consumers are looking for cheaper products and when turnover is dipping due to the loss of smaller and larger customers.

But let us cast our minds back: in the last century when cheap mass production was no longer possible in Germany we reacted judiciously and appropriately. Whatever happens at the end of the day, enthusiasm for perfect quality and forward-looking design without doubt plays a key role in our success at any point in our history. 

just-style: Strategies for constant improvement to operational efficiency are key terms – to use a Japanese word, might one say that Triumph has practised ‘kaizen’ since 1886?

Dieter Braun: This is true to a certain extent – a continual desire for improvements was, is and remains a corporate principle. And especially in these faster moving times when it comes to market changes, consumer behaviour, product and innovation cycles it is important not to stand still.

just-style: Triumph has continually proven its innovative spirit, whether it is in moulding processes for seamless bra cups, no-shrink cotton underwear, ‘minimiser’ developments, or patented telescopic underwires. Will the company be able to keep up the pace?

Dieter Braun: Given some of the patent registrations in the past few years I am very confident here. With increasing pressure from global competition we will also continue to work on optimising production processes and achieving as short as possible sourcing and cycle times from production through to delivery – as well as on improving the quality of our products, their wear comfort and practical value.

just-style: Mr Wagner, many firms choose not to invest in difficult economic times – so in your CAD/CAM department how, and more importantly where, do you set your priorities?

Jörg Wagner: The guidelines for this and other product-related departments are primarily determined by demands made on the final product, on comfort and function. One of our priorities is to continually monitor the development of new technologies and to examine these for use at our global development and production centres.

just-style: Can you give us an example of the new technologies or development trends you have explored. 

Dieter Braun: One example was the idea of full automation of the sewing process in the 80s and 90s. We pursued this idea and also backed it to a certain extent. However, when automation-unfriendly small and mini-series machines arrived in the clothing industry, we focused instead on simplifying sewing machine handling and further developing the capabilities of our staff.

The development of three-dimensional prototypes is certainly an exciting topic for the future and we are working on its implementation step-by-step.

The moulding process, including high-frequency technology that Triumph developed for joining garment pieces, offers a good example of our initiatives. And high on our list of future technologies is the ambitious aim of 3D cutting for cups.

In any case, close collaboration with research bodies and technology partners plays a key role here.

just-style: You talk of global Triumph standards. What does this mean in practice? 

Jörg Wagner: In 2002 we decided to implement a global pattern making system. The goal here was to become faster and better worldwide through rationalisation of our in-house fitting structure, the Global Western Fit and the Global Asian Fit.

In contrast to the previous three operating CAD software systems we now benefit from a uniform, integrated and global solution from pattern-making through to cutting using Gerber Technology’s AccuMark.

The pre-condition for a successful launch was also our close collaboration with Gerber. The first task was to jointly define Triumph-specific demands, to analyse the flow of information, develop an implementation plan, gradually apply this and finally have Gerber train staff at different locations and in different local languages.

just-style: What did this project achieve?

Jörg Wagner: After considerable conversion work on the several thousand styles in our pool, after a phase when we had old and new software running in parallel  – all the while with pressing delivery dates and inevitable demands for quality – we can now say we have the highest possible control over the entire product development chain.

With over 300 AccuMark CAD workstations worldwide at 14 locations, we are in a position to implement modifications launched in product development in a fast and consistent manner.

This means weak points come to light more quickly and a further plus in terms of quality assurance is that we can now analyse and correct errors in cutting styles on a global scale.

Real time communication means all the parties involved see real time cutting in front of them on their computer monitors.

We have also managed to homogenise processes. We are considerably faster at coming up with nests/markers ready for production while using accessories like lace, appliqués and fasteners on a wide variety of complex styles at the Triumph brand.

just-style: How do you recommend other companies tackle a global cutting system deployment?

Jörg Wagner: Choose a software partner that thinks and acts in a global but also central European manner, even in terms of teaching, seminars and training.

And take into consideration that CAD by no means replaces expertise in the pattern-making department but helps your company to generate a good proportion of this expertise.

Be patient – after three years’ orientation and four years’ implementation our users are very satisfied with our CAD cutting system.

And finally, focus on continual and open exchange of knowledge with the software supplier, even after implementation – because developments have to continue. Which is why access to a broad support network is the basis for success.

At the end of the day, technology is just a tool. Creativity and know-how concerning style details and materials will continue to remain a skill of our staff and not the software system. However, CAD makes it possible to identify errors and correct them quickly.

just-style: So the path is the goal? Does that also apply to Triumph distribution?

Dieter Braun: Quite right – and it is always worth taking this path. As far as our distribution channels are concerned, Triumph stores as well as franchise stores, shop-in-shops and fashion outlet centres are gaining importance – with some 800 sales points worldwide at present.

Online sales are currently being assessed. However, here the drive to become ever better by continually adapting the company to market changes also applies.