Over the last few years, single ply cutting has been heavily promoted as a tool for mainstream production. Many cutting equipment suppliers have also heralded it as the answer to total flexibility, quick turnaround 'just in time' customer service, mass customisation, and made-to-measure. But while it is generally agreed that this is the only method for making made-to-measure apparel, just how many retailers are likely to encourage individually produced one-off orders? Niki Tait looks at the hidden costs of single ply cutting, and the ways in which companies can benefit from the technology.