Zara owner Inditex has published a list of its global wet processing suppliers

Zara owner Inditex has published a list of its global wet processing suppliers

Inditex, owner of the Zara fashion brand, has published a list of its global direct and indirect wet processing suppliers, after being commended by Greenpeace for its "exemplary" approach to transparency. 

The company has now made available its list of dyeing, washing, tanning and printing suppliers, both direct and indirect. The former are where Inditex holds a direct sourcing relationship, and the latter supplier list includes mills contracted by its direct suppliers. 

The list describes the current status of the company's active business relationships, and Inditex says the list of 404 mills will increase with time.

But because the database is fed by several business entities, the retailer adds: "The accuracy of [our] indirect suppliers list is heavily dependent on the disclosure provided to us by our direct suppliers, who have the business direct relationship with these wet processes mills."

Inditex was last week commended by environmental action group Greenpeace as part of its annual 'Detox Catwalk' assessment of progress by 19 major fashion brands and retailers. It reviews their commitment to removing toxic chemicals from their supply chains in four years' time.

Greenpeace says the company has delivered on all criteria, adding: "Its approach to transparency is exemplary: it has ensured that its suppliers publish their data on the discharge of hazardous chemicals in wastewater; it has published a list of its wet process suppliers; investigated the presence of hazardous chemicals across its supply chain including an analysis of trends across regions; and has a root causes programme to determine the source of hazardous chemicals when they occur."

But while other companies including Hennes & Mauritz (H&M) and Benetton were praised by Greenpeace for being on track to clean up their chains, the group expressed concerns the textile and apparel industry is not doing enough to meet its goals of going toxic-free by 2020 – and suggests part of the problem lies with "flawed" chemical lists. It has also set its sights on closing the loop as the next focus of its campaign.

Friction over chemical lists hampers Detox ambition

Inditex's supply chain includes around 1,725 suppliers and 6,298 factories located in over 50 countries. Around 60% of production is performed by suppliers from areas close to the headquarters and logistical centres in Spain.