EPR charges were found to reshape what consumers buy, rather than how much they spend, in what WEFT believes is a new finding globally, not just in the UK.
Researchers analysed the behaviour of 2,803 UK shoppers and tested how recycling charges affected their purchasing decisions.
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Charges below £0.50 per garment were shown to have little impact on buying decisions, although higher charges significantly motivated consumers to choose items with lower charges.
When charges above £0.50 were added to garments, shoppers were seen to switch to items with lower EPR charges, even if the product itself was priced higher. In some scenarios, consumers chose a £20 garment with a £0.30 recycling charge over a £15 item with a £0.60 charge.
Recycling charges of £1.00 or more led almost half of all shoppers to change their purchase decision for an item with a lower charge.
The researchers say this highlights how visible environmental pricing can shape consumer behaviour.
Total consumer spending remained broadly consistent across the various models demonstrated, with shoppers often trading up to more expensive garments with lower EPR charges rather than reducing their overall spend.
Funding fashion’s path to circularity
With EPR expected to play a central role in how clothing waste is funded and managed, as part of plans to advance the circular economy, the findings could prove useful in shaping government policy.
“The UK fashion and textile industry is entering a new phase in its sustainability journey, one that demands both honesty and courage. This research gives policymakers and the fashion industry the first real evidence of how shoppers respond to visible recycling charges on clothing,” explained Kristina Bull, co-founder of WEFT.
“The data shows clearly that small charges are unlikely to influence behaviour, but once charges pass a certain level, they become a powerful signal in purchase decisions.”
WEFT says it is now inviting brands and retailers to collaborate in trials and retail environments, both online and in-store, in a bid to better understand how visible EPR charges can influence real purchasing behaviour.
The research was conducted with support from the Back to Baseline programme and academic collaboration from the Manchester Fashion Institute at Manchester Metropolitan University.
Professor Liz Barnes, head of the Manchester Fashion Institute, added: “The findings provide important evidence for policymakers and industry designing future textile EPR systems. Understanding how shoppers respond to visible charges will be essential to ensure that any system is both affordable and capable of funding effective recycling infrastructure.”
