Findings from a three-year EU life cycle assessment study into the effect fluorine-based product alternatives for textiles has revealed they may be no safer than their original counterpart.

PFASs – per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances – are a family of chemicals used in a wide range of industrial and consumer applications. In textiles, they are used as coatings.

Due to concerns about their persistence, bioaccumulation and toxicity, long-chain PFASs are increasingly being phased out, creating a growing market for alternatives. It is estimated that there are more than 4,000 PFASs on the global market.

Concerns have been raised about the persistence, bioaccumulation and toxicity of long-chain PFASs. This has led to the phasing out of their production for the majority of uses and the increasing use of replacement PFASs, such as perfluoroether carboxylic acids (PFECAs) and perfluoroether sulfonic acids (PFESAs).

However, information on the identity, frequency of use, and potential impacts of these alternative PFASs remains scarce.

Science for Environment Policy by EC Europa recently cited results of new research that looked into replacement PFAs. “The method indicates that replacement PFASs may be just as bioaccumulative as original (legacy) PFASs and are, therefore, not necessarily safer,” it adds. “If correct, this finding has significant policy implications.”

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Growing awareness of the risks of PFAs has seen a number of brands – particularly in the outdoor industry – phase out their use of PFCs.

Ternua last month said it became the first Spanish brand to completely eliminate perfluorinated compounds (PFCs) from the textiles used in its latest collection

Considering the lack of clarity on the risk of PFA/PFC alternatives, Patagonia and HeiQ recently partnered on research to explore new ways for a sustainable textile finishing technology to achieve breathable and durable water repellence (DWR) with best-in-class performances. 

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