A new report has reviewed 14 major US apparel brands and retailers – including Target, The North Face, Nike and Gap – and says there is “much room for improvement” when it comes to transparency, chemical waste, water management and workplace conditions within their supply chains.

The Toxic Textiles report from environmental economy organisation Green America suggests many retailers are coming up short when it comes to sustainability commitments and transparency.

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Of its key findings, Target, VF Corp, Nike and Gap were found to have “better than average corporate practices,” while Ascena Retail, Walmart, Abercrombie & Fitch, American Eagle Outfitters, Ralph Lauren, The Children’s Place and Urban Outfitters were “behind the curve but not the worst” with claims of having policies in place, but failing to provide details on them.

Carter’s, J.Crew and Forever 21 were said to indicate little to no corporate policy whatsoever on chemical management, factory transparency, factory safety, water management, alternative resources or waste/recycling. None of these three companies responded to just-style’s request for comment.

In its other findings, the report says that across the sector many brands often incorporate a single policy to address one issue in the supply chain, then use this to claim overall sustainability.

Additionally, many apparel companies claim to have policies addressing environmental or labour issues but have not followed through with specific plans, goals, metrics or timelines. The report also says transparency is still lacking in the industry, with only four companies – Target, VF Corp, Nike and Gap Inc – identifying and restricting chemical use in manufacturing and only six – Target, VF Corp, Nike, Gap, Ascena and Abercrombie & Fitch – listing supplier factories. 

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“Consumers want sustainable clothing, and the market is responding,” says Caroline Chen, Green America’s social justice campaigns manager. “But too often, many of the promises we hear from conventional companies are token sustainability initiatives that are band-aids to one small part of the problem, or empty platitudes without a plan to achieve real change. Sustainability shouldn’t just be a marketing trend.”

Todd Larsen, Green America’s exec co-director adds: “For too long, companies have focused on blaming consumers as the primary driver of environmental and social degradation. And while it is important for consumers to adjust our shopping habits, it is also important for companies to start taking responsibility of the role they play in these issues, starting with the massive amounts of chemicals used in the industry.”

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