Finnish fibre company Spinnova has partnered with global chemicals company Kemira to develop a sustainable inherent dyeing method it claims could disrupt the process of dyeing apparel, including denim.
The textile dyeing and finishing industry is one of the most chemically intensive industries globally, and one of the worst polluters of freshwater. The traditional textile industry uses thousands of chemicals in various processes of manufacture, including dyeing and printing.
The new method, however, sees the cellulosic fibre mass dyed before extruding into filament. This, Spinnova says, avoids the excess use of water, energy, heavy metals and other harmful substances that go into dyeing fibre, thread and fabric as subsequent processes.
“In addition to being the most sustainable way of dyeing, the fibre maintains this in-built colour really well,” says Spinnova CEO and co-founder Janne Poranen. “We have already made some successful trials, and the results are very promising.”
Spinnova has developed a technology for manufacturing cellulose-based textile fibres from FCS-certified wood or cellulosic waste streams. Unlike other cellulose-based fibres, the firm says its method involves no dissolving, harmful chemicals or side streams.
Kemira, which specialises in chemical applications for the pulp and paper industry says its collaboration with Spinnova will allow it to extend its knowledge into the development of new textile innovations, not only in dyeing but also to improve other properties of sustainable textile fibre, such as hydrophobicity and strength.
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By GlobalDataSpinnova’s strategy is to work with brand owners in developing applications before the fibre is commercially available.
“It is humbling to see how committed brand owners are in sustainability and developing these sustainable solutions with us,” Poranen adds.
Earlier this year, Spinnova revealed the first printed clothing made from its wood-based fibre under a partnership with the Marimekko fashion group.
