The global apparel and footwear industries together account for 8% of the world’s greenhouse gas emissions – almost as much as the total carbon impact of the EU – a new study has found.
What is thought to be the first in-depth, science-based study investigating the environmental impacts of the apparel and footwear sector has been published by NGO ClimateWorks Foundation and environmental sustainability consultancy Quantis. It reveals the industries’ hotspots and identifies levers of change to guide companies to reduce their impacts.
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The ‘Measuring Fashion: Environmental Impact of the Global Apparel and Footwear Industries‘ report found that the apparel industry alone accounts for 6.7% of the world’s greenhouse gas emissions, with more than 50% coming from three phases: fibre production (15%); yarn preparation (28%); and the highest impact phase – dyeing & finishing (36%).
And in a business-as-usual scenario, apparel’s climate impact is expected to increase by 49% – equal to today’s total annual greenhouse gas emissions in the US.
“There is increasing pressure on fashion brands to demonstrate their sustainability,” says Quantis senior sustainability consultant Annabelle Stamm. “We have seen many assumptions being made about the actual environmental performance of the industry and its value chain, where the hotspots lie, and what the potential solutions may be. We knew fashion’s impact was major, but we didn’t have the science-based metric view of what this really meant. This study enables us to answer some of these questions, bust some of our collective assumptions, and provide guidance to those committed to act.”
The report identifies three levers of change: re-thinking energy, disruptive reduction, and design for the future. It also questions whether shifting to a circular economy is enough.
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By GlobalDataRe-think energy: Maximise efficiency and shift to renewables. To significantly lower emissions and achieve an industry wide science-based target, fossil fuel dependency needs to be massively reduced while boosting energy efficiency throughout the value chain. The scenario analysis showed an 80% overall greenhouse gas emission reduction in the apparel industry alone may be achieved by shifting to 60% renewable energy and setting a 60% energy efficiency target by 2030. Additional opportunities could come from changing production to regions with positive renewable energy forecasts.
Disrupt to reduce: Digitalisation and new consumption models. On the supply side, digitalization can lead to process efficiency improvements by reducing raw materials and waste. New technologies can also improve energy efficiency to further reduce emissions in key life cycle stages like dyeing and finishing and yarn preparation. On the demand side, smart(er) consumption models, such as garment and accessory leasing or take-back programmes, can extend the use phase of the article, reducing demand for new products.
Design for the future: Preferred and recycled fibres. Material selection is also key for reducing the climate impact. More sustainable choices include preferred fibres with a lower environmental impact (such as cotton using regenerative organic agriculture practices), emerging materials that use less energy intensive processes, and recycled fibres available thanks to new chemical recycling processes. This goes hand in hand with energy efficiency considerations and circular economy concepts by understanding how fibre materials can be collected and looped back into the system.
“Clothing is a major part of our day-to-day consumption and we all know that fashion is getting faster and cheaper,” says Helen Picot, buildings and industry portfolio at ClimateWorks Foundation. “But few consumers realise how much their new shirt or pair of shoes impacts their carbon and water footprint. This new research from Quantis and ClimateWorks Foundation reveals the most environmentally intensive links in apparel supply chains. These results can help brands, manufacturers and consumers make smarter choices about how to get on a more sustainable path.”
Click here to view the full report.
