Renewcell’s recent bankruptcy serves as a sobering reminder of the complexities involving the transition to a circular fashion economy. Credit: Getty Images

As with most weeks on Just Style, news around fashion sustainability and circularity dominated headlines with companies sharing the latest innovations in material development aimed at prompting a shift from a linear economy.

Automated textile sorting company Tomra Textiles and Circle-8 Textile Ecosystems have forged a strategic collaboration aimed at spearheading the development of what they claim is the UK’s first automated textiles sorting and pre-processing facility for non-reusable textiles.

While Spiber Inc, a Japanese biotechnology startup, has raised a total of ¥10bn ($64.7m) to ramp up mass production of its innovative brewed protein materials and facilitate global sales.

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And non-profit Textile Exchange has outlined a strategy for the fashion and textile industry to transition away from using virgin fossil fuels as a feedstock for materials if it is to meet the greenhouse gas (GHG) emission targets currently associated with synthetic fibres.

But it wasn’t long ago Renewcell filed for bankruptcy, the same company that had secured supply deals with major household names like Inditex’s Zara brand and H&M.

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The chairman of the board of directors, Michael Berg, called it a “sad day for the environment, our employees, our shareholders, and our other stakeholders” and criticised it as “testament to the lack of leadership and necessary pace of change in the fashion industry.”

Non-profit Canopy’s founder and executive director Nicole Rycroft explained at that time how the fashion value chain was not fully prepared to support “this first-to-market leader” in bringing sustainable fashion from niche to mainstream despite the ground being more fertile than ever for a “NextGen transformation.”

Shortly after Spinnova warned the global textile industry to get on board in moving away from conventional fibres as its annual sales slumped, prompting a restructure.

It would appear the understanding of the urgent need to shift toward a circular economy does exist within the fashion industry and the innovation to do so is available. But apparel and textile players are not yet investing at the level they need to be in order to scale the transition.

Rycroft adds that without bold commitments from every stakeholder, including fibre producers, global brands, and governments, the world will not be able to implement low-carbon solutions in time to limit global temperature rises and avoid the worst impacts of climate change.

As the trending TikTok audio would suggest, what fashion circularity needs to accelerate success is “more passion, more passion, more energy, more energy”. From every stakeholder involved. At every stage in the supply chain. Because united we stand, and evidently, divided we fall.

Top news stories on Just Style last week…

Primark, RBC hail success of Sudokkho factory training project in Bangladesh

The management consulting firm, Rajesh Bheda Consulting (RBC) revealed that, through its Sudokkho Training program in collaboration with Primark in Bangladesh, nearly 225 garment workers have been trained, out of which 45 were women trained in supervisory capabilities.

US Senator urges probe into Shein, Temu ‘slave labour’

The US Department of Homeland Security (DHS) is being urged to investigate Shein and Temu for “slave labour” within their supply chains.

Fashion, textile industries urged to divest from synthetic materials

Non-profit Textile Exchange has published a report outlining strategies for the fashion and textile industry to transition away from using virgin fossil fuels as a feedstock for materials if it is to meet the greenhouse gas (GHG) emission targets currently associated with synthetic fibres.

Open access platform identifies forced labour risks in US apparel supply chains

The “first” open-access platform, Supply Trace, has been developed between Northeastern and Sheffield Hallam Universities to allow US companies, trade professionals, law enforcement agencies, and civil society to identify potential exposure to forced labour risks within supply chains.

Amer Sports announces departure of Salomon CEO

Amer Sports, Inc. an international conglomerate with a portfolio of sports and outdoor brands including Arc’teryx, Salomon, Wilson, Peak Performance and Atomica has announced that the president and CEO of Salomon Franco Fogliato will be stepping down from his role due to personal reasons.

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The most innovative fashion companies in 2024 include Circ, Skims, Canada Goose and Citizens of Humanity for their contributions to the industry in the areas of technology, sustainability and of course, style.

Amazon to invest €700m in robotics, AI-powered tech in Europe

E-commerce giant Amazon is investing more than €700m ($745m) in new robotics and AI-powered innovations for its European fulfillment centre (FC) network, creating new jobs and an enhanced retail experience for its customers.