Online fast-fashion retailer Boohoo has defended itself against claims it is hesitant to give its staff the opportunity to join an independent trade union, adding it has taken measures to understand the views and opinions of its teams and that its staff have shown “no interest” in trade union representation.
The comments to just-style follow an announcement that retail trade union USDAW ((Union of Shop, Distributive and Allied Workers) is “stepping up” its campaign for recognition at Boohoo, after the company again refused to meet last week.
Along with peers Missguided and Asos, Boohoo was one of 16 brands involved in an in-depth probe by the UK Parliament’s Environmental Audit Committee (EAC) into the state of the British fashion industry at the end of last year.
Beyond the environmental impact of the industry, concerns over the social impact of apparel production – forced and child labour in countries including Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan – as well as labour exploitation in the UK, were highlighted.
As part of its final report, the EAC recommended Boohoo engage with USDAW as a priority and recognise unions for its workers.
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By GlobalDataOn the back of media reports that USDAW has been struggling to establish trade union discussions with Boohoo, Mary Creagh MP and chair of the EAC, wrote a letter to Boohoo joint CEO Carol Kane saying this was “contrary to the evidence” given to the committee.
“I would be grateful if you could tell me what steps you have taken to engage with USDAW regarding formal trade union recognition at your Burnley warehouse site? When will formal recognition be forthcoming? What other progress have you made to recognise trade unions within your supply chain in the UK and overseas?”
Creagh’s letter also questioned where Boohoo was at with its considerations to join the Ethical Trading Initiative.
“My Committee has an ongoing concern about labour exploitation in the UK garment industry and would appreciate a timely response to these questions.”
Mike Aylward, USDAW divisional officer, adds: “Boohoo wants to convince Parliament that they are an ethical trader, but when it comes to giving their staff a voice through an independent trade union they are found wanting. Ethical trading isn’t just about checking the terms and conditions of workers in the supply chain, as important as that is, it’s also about ensuring Boohoo’s directly employed staff are treated with dignity and respect.”
“Employee engagement high on agenda”
Speaking to just-style, a spokesperson for Boohoo explained that its Burnley site employs 2,000 people, where it has invested GBP58m in the last two years.
“Employee engagement is high on our agenda and we are keen to become the employer of choice for the people of Burnley and neighbouring areas,” says the spokesperson, adding Boohoo has been running the ‘Your Voice’ employee engagement programme for five years and will be launching another employee engagement survey shortly in conjunction with Acrington-based company Anthem.
Commenting on the outcomes of the Your Voice programme in the past, Boohoo says it has implemented a number of initiatives including improved safety footwear, better quality and more suitable uniforms, ESOL classes, subsidised staff restaurants, an onsite gym, bonus and share schemes.
“As we have previously stated to USDAW, our priority is to understand the views and opinions of our teams and what their wishes are regarding union representation. At the most recent meeting held to discuss this matter, just last month, there continued to be no interest from our teams. We will, of course, continue to source their views and monitor this closely.”
Commenting on its progress with ETI membership, Boohoo says it is currently “in discussions” with the ETI. However, it adds it already has “a strong framework of supply chain practices and policies in place that meet or exceed industry initiatives.”
In addition, the retailer has entered into a partnership with Hope For Justice group Slave-Free Alliance, which will help it to continue to improve the rights of workers throughout its supply base.