Euratex released its 2023 Spring Report in which it noted EU textile imports rose 36.6% in value terms with a significant amount coming from China and Bangladesh outweighing positive export performance.

As a result, the EU’s trade deficit in textiles and clothing has increased to €70bn, which is 48% higher than the year before.

“Such a growing deficit is a cause for concern; the objective of the EU’s Industrial Strategy to strengthen our resilience and “strategic autonomy” is not happening. Instead, our dependency has increased, and becomes critical in certain raw materials and fibres,” Euratex explained.

The trade body also pointed out the figures challenge the Commission’s ambition which is to promote – and prevail – high quality and sustainable textile products on the Single Market – regardless where they have been produced. With imports now reaching €140bn, it will be a challenge to effectively control the quality and compliance over these imports. Market surveillance will need to be stepped up massively, without becoming a barrier to trade.

In addition, more effort needs to be placed on EU export performance in order to rebalance trade relations with the rest of the world.

“EU companies are world leaders in high-end fashion products and in technical textiles. More needs to be done to support their activities in established markets but also emerging economies. For instance, the ongoing FTA negotiations with India should focus on improving market access and ensure “fair” competition with local companies,” Euratex said.

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The Euratex Spring Report highlights significant differences between trade-in value and in volume. EU’s export of textile products has increased by 13% in value but actually dropped by nearly 7% in volume. This obviously reflects the very high inflation figures from last year, caused initially by the rising energy prices and changing central bank policies. This in turn leads to uncertainty with the consumer, resulting in low demand and gloomy prospects for the entire value chain.

Director General Dirk Vantyghem said: “This report confirms once again that textiles are one of the most globalised sectors of the European economy, and hence the importance of taking that global dimension into account when designing EU and national policies. Failing to do so may have a devastating effect on the global competitiveness of the European textile industry.”

Looking forward, he added: “It is essential to stabilise inflation, restore consumer confidence and ensure a level playing field for all operators in the textile industry. On that basis, European companies can prosper and offer quality jobs to 1.3m workers”.

In recent months the EU textile industry has suffered a loss of competitiveness on the back of rising energy costs.