During the Biofabricate Paris Summit, Spiber introduced its biosphere circulation project that aims to transform unused apparel and textiles as well as agricultural byproducts into nutrients for microbial fermentation.

The project is also geared towards producing novel protein materials, a key component of Spiber’s proprietary Brewed Protein materials.

The recent partnership with luxury apparel conglomerate Kering, women’s fashion brand Eileen Fisher Inc., woollen and cashmere brand Johnstons of Elgin, and colourant solution company DyStar, follow technical apparel brand Goldwin and sustainable fashion brand Pangaia’s earlier participation in June 2023.

The collective goal is to transition from the traditional linear “take-make-use-dispose” model to a circular “take-make-use-reuse” model.

The participation of industry leaders extends beyond endorsement, as Kering, Eileen Fisher Inc., Johnstons of Elgin, and DyStar will supply specific fibre samples processed with key types of textile chemicals for Spiber’s lab-scale testing.

Spiber aims to compile the results into a comprehensive database, offering valuable insights to the industry for designing circular products.

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This collaborative effort will shed light on how various textile chemicals affect the conversion of cellulose and protein-based materials into fermentation nutrients, such as sugars and amino acids.

Kering’s Material Innovation Lab director Christian Tubito said: “The biosphere circulation project is an ambitious and challenging initiative opening a new path to textile recycling. From being a last resort, recycling can become a new promising alternative for unusable textile materials.” 

Eileen Fisher Inc.’s director of material sustainability and integrity Inka Apter, added: “We need all the tools in our toolbox to jointly move our industry forward towards a circular economy for textiles. The biosphere circulation project looks at the fundamental principles of circularity at the level of building blocks of our materials, including dyes and finishes.”

Spiber said it is keen to invite more fashion industry players to join its initiative.

In 2022, Pangaia teamed with Spiber to launch a sweatshirt made using Brewed Proteins fibres and organic cotton.