The Kingpins Transformers conference, which takes place alongside the Kingpins denim sourcing show in Amsterdam, has joined forces with the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Roadmap-to-Zero Programme to help drive sustainable change within the denim industry.
The new collaboration will see the bi-annual Amsterdam summit combine its programme with ZDHC’s mission to accelerate the fashion industry towards a future of zero discharge of hazardous chemicals, with a focus on the specific needs and challenges of the denim value chain.
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It will be led and supported by the founding members of Kingpins Transformers: Garmon Chemical’s Alberto De Conti, and Archroma’s Miguel Sánchez Gavilán.
A clear theme that chemical companies work hard to articulate is the multitude of regulations they face in conforming to green chemistry standards, and the high cost they face in doing so.
Gavilán told this year’s summit: “We’re in the land of confusion.” He stressed that in his experience many brands are reluctant to pass the cost onto consumers, but added: “once these new technologies, methods or products become the standard, the cost will become diluted.”
He also proposed that brands need to work harder to explain why the cost of a certain product might be higher if more sustainable methods are used, and insisted that if the consumer were better informed, they’d be more willing to pay.
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By GlobalDataDe Conti echoed Gavilán’s frustration with what he termed “regulatory schizophrenia,” but insisted the textile and footwear industry is not static. He argued that a more collaborative approach could solve this problem.
“If the problem is a common one, why can’t we find a common solution?”
Sara Fessler, RSL and environmental specialist from Dutch denim brand G-Star, acknowledged the multitude of issues facing denim production. However, while she admitted “denim is a “dirty business,” she added: “At G-Star, we’re taking up this challenge.”
G-Star was one of the first brands to sign onto the ZDHC Programme, commit to zero discharge of hazardous chemicals by 2020, and commit to becoming APEO free.
“Are we scared of a toxic future? No, we see a lot of innovation, we see a lot of sustainable solutions, and we’re on a journey forward,” she told delegates.
Stefano Aldighieri, head of denim design at Indian manufacturer Arvind Limited, acknowledged the value of sharing a common goal.
“ZDHC has given us a roadmap. It provides guidance and direction to take steps towards the elimination of hazardous chemicals. We are a part of nature. We’re not doing this because we are great. We are doing this because we want to survive.”
