A new study says new policies and technologies to substantially reduce release of textile microfibres “are urgently needed.”

The research confirms that microfibres – tiny pieces of plastic shed from clothing made of synthetic fibres – are escaping wastewater treatment plants and ending up in the food chain.

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And while all garments shed to some extent during use and washing, it estimates that between 20% and 35% of all microplastics in marine environments come from synthetic clothing.

To reduce the impact, researchers recommend investing in higher quality garments which appear to shed less, washing clothes less often, and washing on gentler cycles.

Increasing the amount of natural fibres in our wardrobes would make a “significant contribution,” to solving the problem, the authors say.

In a comprehensive review of microplastics science released by the Norwegian institute for consumer research (SIFO) – ‘Microplastic pollution from textiles: A literature review’ – a team of Australian and Norwegian researchers summarises how different textiles and washing methods contribute to the spread of microfibre pollution.

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While the mechanisms are not yet fully understood, the harmful effects of this pollution include the ingestion of microfibres by organisms in oceans, freshwater and coastal habitats.

The negative impact is compounded by toxic compounds which are attracted to and retained by the microfibres.

Longer lasting, lower impact

Originally commissioned in 2014 to generate a better understanding of the issue of textile microfibres, the review of 81 source documents shows that knowledge of the scale of the problems caused by plastics is only just starting to be exposed.

The work was funded by Australian Wool Innovation (AWI) and the Cotton Research and Development Corporation (CRDC).

“Strategies are needed to meet demand for textiles without overconsumption and without unnecessary harm to the environment or risk to human health,” the study says.  

Researchers also hope the findings will lead to improvements in the way microfibres are addressed in eco-assessment tools – noting that tools such as the Sustainable Apparel Coalition’s Higg Index do not currently include microfibre pollution impacts in their assessments.

Brand-based initiatives could be helpful, they note. Beginning in 2017, the US outdoor brand Patagonia will provide all customers who purchase a Patagonia synthetic item with information about how to care for it to limit the shedding of microfibres in the wash and keeping what does shed out of the ocean.

Practices include less frequent washing over the life of the garment, gentler washing and extending the life of the garment.

But the greatest contribution to lessening the damage of microfibre contamination of the environment should come from consuming and disposing of fewer textiles.

“A significant contribution would come from promoting long-lasting garments (“slow fashion”) based on increasing the proportion of natural, biodegradable fibre in the wardrobe,” the authors say.

“Fibres of plant or annual origin biodegrade naturally to harmless compounds which return essential nutrients back to soil or water for organism growth.”

“There is little tradition of regulating clothing consumption,” says study author Ingun Grimstad Klepp of SIFO. “For microfibre pollution to come under control, it’s up to you and me.”

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