The shipments, largely made up of acrylic fibres that persist in the environment for up to two centuries, were mislabelled in an attempt to avoid strict and expensive recycling rules.
As part of the operation, OLAF partnered with the Italian Carabinieri, analysing available technology for recycling acrylic fibres, as well as trade flow and customs data.
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This investigation revealed shipments that were “mislabelled” so as to evade regulatory requirements attached to non-biodegradable textile waste.
In addition, OLAF participated in an unannounced on-site inspection organised by the Turkish authorities, together with the Carabinieri and experts from Italy’s Tuscany Regional Agency for Environmental Protection (ARPAT).
During the inspection, nearly 2,100 tonnes of textiles were found stored in a warehouse belonging to a Turkish recycling company.
Through further intelligence provided by OLAF, an additional 768 tonnes of textile waste from Italy, related to the same scheme, were located at the port of Mersin, Türkiye.
This waste was similarly mislabelled and prepared for illegal dumping. All shipments associated with the investigation were seized by Turkish officials.
OLAF director-general Petr Klement said: “Schemes such as this one that offer ways to illegally avoid the cost of recycling certain kinds of textile waste or complying with environmental rules are an opportunity for organised networks to make illegal gains.
“The threat to our economy and our environment is both real and massive. OLAF’s work is crucial in tracking down these shipments and working with national authorities in and around Europe to detect and seize the waste and helping to take down these criminal organisations. This case showcases the significance and the impact of OLAF’s work for the benefit of Europeans today and tomorrow.”
The actions from OLAF come after the European Commission implemented new legislation on waste management in October 2025 to tackle textile waste.
The regulation requires a clear distinction between used textiles and textile waste. Under the rules, all separately collected textiles are now classified as waste, and each EU member state must ensure that these items undergo sorting before any export.
Textile waste remains a significant challenge for the EU’s textile sector, which reported a turnover of €170bn ($193bn) in 2023 and employs 1.3 million people. Of the 12.6 million tonnes of textile waste generated in 2019, only one-fifth was separately collected for reuse or recycling.
