Textile waste poses significant environmental challenges in Europe, with an estimated 6.95m tonnes produced annually within the EU. The majority of this waste is either landfilled or incinerated, with only a minimal portion currently being repurposed or recycled.
To address this issue, the T-REX Project was initiated in June 2022. Its goal was to unite 13 entities from different sectors of the value chain, each based in different EU member states, to collaborate on creating a standardised approach for circular recycling of post-consumer household textile waste.
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The project has successfully demonstrated products manufactured through the recycling of polyester, polyamide 6, and cellulosic materials within Europe.
The strategic blueprint offers detailed insights and actionable recommendations for each segment of the value chain. These were derived from thorough analyses conducted by the consortium members throughout the duration of the project. Their research focused on evaluating the technical feasibility, economic practicality, and environmental benefits associated with a recycling-oriented value chain.
Key challenges and proposed measures to increase circular textile system
Technical Scalability
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By GlobalData– Manual sorting is inefficient and expensive. Investment in automated technologies like Near Infrared (NIR) and AI could enhance identification of complex garments.
– Pre-processing is crucial for improving the quality and recyclability of textiles. Co-locating mechanical pre-processing with sorting facilities can increase yields and efficiency.
Business Viability
– Despite high volumes of textile waste, recyclers face a shortage of quality feedstock and high costs. Low collection rates by EU member states and lack of incentive for sorters have led to insufficient availability of post-consumer material suitable for recycling.
– High operational costs in Europe are driven by energy and labour expenses. Automation and access to renewable energy sources are essential for reducing these costs.
Environmental Impact
– The environmental benefits of textile recycling vary depending on material types and recycling technologies.
– Energy-intensive stages contribute significantly to environmental impact. Therefore, improving energy efficiency and using low-impact energy sources is critical.
– Production and usage phases of textiles still account for a considerable portion of the sector’s ecological footprint. To extend the life of clothing items, there is a growing emphasis on designing for durability.
Policy Recommendations
– Economic incentives should be implemented to distribute waste management responsibilities across the value chain.
– End-of-waste (EoW) criteria need alignment with market-driven standards to facilitate circularity in textiles.
– Setting realistic targets for recycled content will encourage market demand while accommodating new technologies.
– Recyclability standards should be harmonised but flexible enough to support innovation.
Post-consumer textile waste is anticipated to rise to 7.3 million tonnes by 2030, underscoring the need for recycling initiatives.
To address the escalating issue, which currently includes landfilling, incineration, or exporting waste, recycling must be a key component of a comprehensive approach that also emphasises reuse, repair, and managing consumer demand, the blueprint says.
