A report from Textile Exchange Growing Hemp For The Future: A Global Fiber Guide, pointed out that at present there is “limited information” to support all sustainability claims related to fibre hemp to accurately identify where and how much is grown internationally.
“Further research is therefore needed to substantiate claims,” Textile Exchange said.
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“At this early stage, the industry has a unique opportunity to shape fibre hemp standards from the soil up, setting up systems that maximise measurable benefits for the climate, ecosystems, and communities.”
The report comes as the global textile industry is increasingly turning to the once-stigmatised crop, celebrating its ability to enhance soil health, support biodiversity, suppress weeds, and increase yields among subsequent crops – all while relying on little or no inputs.
Key findings:
- Unlike other popular crops which have become reliant on synthetic pesticides, biological pesticides are to date the primary pesticides that governments have permitted for use on fibre hemp
- Research is underway to add additional conventional pesticides to the limited fibre hemp pest management toolkit. In some countries, pesticides that meet the United Nation’s “Highly Hazardous” definition have already been approved for use on hemp. Availability and use of synthetic pesticides is likely to expand without industry commitment to the precautionary principle – exploring alternatives to possible harmful actions
- Significant improvements need to be made to undertake and make public data that supports sustainability statements and identifies fibre hemp production regions and quantities.
- While data is incomplete, the leading hemp fibre countries by volume appear to be France, China, North Korea (estimated), Poland, and the United States.
- 60 years of data from the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization (1961-2021) indicates that 2021 fibre hemp production by volume was approximately the same level as in 1961 but grown on far less land with far greater efficiency, resulting in higher yields.
“Given the potential benefits associated with hemp production – including improving biodiversity and soil health – as well as the potential of hemp production expanding, Textile Exchange is utilising this report to consolidate information about the benefits and concerns regarding its production, where it is grown, its historic legal status, which pesticides are permitted for use in different countries, as well as which standards support sustainability claims that could be applied to its production. This includes a review of the sectors handling hemp fibres that are certified to the Organic Content Standard (OCS) and Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS),” Sandra Marquardt, fiber crops senior manager, Textile Exchange, says.
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By GlobalData“We also make the case for growing and processing the fibre so that it meets Textile Exchange’s definition of “preferred” fibres and raw materials, representing a forward-thinking stance from which both current and future generations will benefit. This would allow us to avoid lessons learned from the production of other fibre crops that have become heavily treated with synthetic pesticides and fertilisers.
“We believe that – if done right – the production and use of hemp fibre has great potential to support the achievement of our Climate+ goals which call for the reduction of greenhouse gas emissions from fibre and raw material production by 45% by 2030 while also improving soil health, water, and biodiversity in the pre-spinning phase.”
Textile Exchange is now urging the hemp sector to improve global production tracking; avoid the adoption of hazardous pesticides and synthetic fertilisers; and to become certified to organic and regenerative standards that provide a chain of custody from field to finished product.
