A researcher at the University of Borås in Sweden has developed an integrated tagging system for textiles that could lead to greater transparency in the garment supply chain.
Unlike other tagging systems, this one relies on using the pattern formed by black and white twisted thread in a woven or knitted piece of fabric. The tag becomes part of the fabric or garment, making it more difficult to forge than other types of traceable tags such as RFID or QR-codes, the researchers claim.
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The research was led by PhD student and textile engineer Vijay Kumar, who explains traceability consists of two parts: an information carrier (tag) and an information system. The tag is used to identify the product in the supply chain, and can also make it easier to recall products, or save data from the information system.
“A couple of advantages with my concept is that it’s made completely of textiles and that it’s only read visually,” says Kumar. “It will be possible to do the reading with an app in a smartphone, and no special technical equipment will be needed. That it’s not readable electronically from a distance can also be beneficial from an integrity point of view.”
Kumar says increasing demands on manufactures to show they don’t use child labour, and that production takes place under environment-friendly terms, makes safe and traceable tagging even more important. Transparency has become a “competitive advantage,” he says.
His research has been inspired by barcodes and the idea stems from arranging the information in the same way as the appearance of the yarn.
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By GlobalDataBy using at least two different colours – such as black and white – for the threads that are twisted into a yarn, it is possible to make varied patterns. The twist can be more or less frequent, and be turned to different angles. And it’s possible to weave or knit any number of threads with twists in different combinations to create a unique pattern.
“Then it’s possible to load the code with whatever information you like,” asserts Kumar. “It could be a guarantee to know that this really is the exact textile from the brand and production that it’s said to be. There can also be a need for traceability for the occasions when textiles have to be recalled due to some error in production. Another field of use is to help the supply chain keep track on how much is produced and where the delivery is.”
Kumar says modifications need to be made to allow for different types of textiles, materials and dyes, but he hopes to be able to develop the project further through cooperation with industry.
