The findings, published in the report "From Wheat Straw to Wardrobes: Fashioning a new fibre future," point to wheat straw’s ability to deliver fibre quality and technical performance on par with current industry standards, while offering additional environmental and social benefits. 

The demonstration project, called Project Latvus, involved a collaboration with brands including C&A, H&M Group, and Reformation, as well as technology, supply chain and farming partners such as Chempolis, TITK, Inovafil, Textile Genesis, and A2P Energy.  

Rather than relying on the conventional source of wood-derived pulp, the project tested whether Indian wheat straw could be pulped and used in the manufacture of man-made cellulosic fibres, specifically viscose and lyocell, without compromising on fabric performance. 

Canopy’s report states that the materials created from wheat straw not only matched commercial requirements but also supported the creation of a range of yarns and textiles.  

Representatives from Reformation and TITK noted that the new fibre was comparable to wood-based lyocell in both appearance and feel, with the added benefit of meeting expectations during product testing.   Additional partners also signalled readiness to increase usage should supply and pricing reach scale. 

According to Canopy, scaling production using agricultural residues such as wheat straw may help address several critical challenges. 90 million tonnes of crop residue are burned in India annually, a process responsible for seasonal air pollution in the northern region and loss of potential alternative income sources for rural communities.  

The report places emphasis on India’s capacity for developing a circular textile sector, given both the scale of straw produced and the presence of circular textile-to-textile production systems.  Redirecting agricultural residues towards fibre production, the authors argue, could help mitigate burning-related air pollution and generate new revenue streams in farming regions. 

Canopy is calling on fashion brands to support the scale-up of MMCFs that don’t rely on wood pulp, noting in the report that pooled demand will help these materials achieve price parity and scale quickly.

Canopy founder and executive director Nicole Rycroft said: “Project Latvus shows that the future of fibre is already here. While continued scale-up is needed to optimise efficiency and close the price difference, the direction is clear - Next Gen MMCFs are ready for the next stage of commercial adoption. By diversifying feedstocks beyond forests, we have a real opportunity to build a more resilient, circular, and low-impact textile industry.” 

Project Latvus was supported by the Laudes Foundation and built on previous research that evaluated the feasibility of employing agricultural waste in textiles. The project combined efforts from the farming stage to finished garments, aiming to solve logistics and technical challenges in adopting new materials across the supply chain.