In a formal letter addressed to USDA Secretary Brooke Rollins, Pingree pressed for the inclusion of other plant- and animal-based fibres such as hemp, flax, wool, alpaca, and leather within federal programmes. 

Pingree, who has a background in organic farming and has advocated for sustainable agriculture and the reduction of pollution from fast fashion, stated in her letter that reshoring textile production is becoming more important amid shifts in global manufacturing trends.  

She wrote: “As global trends have impacted the economics of producing textiles and apparel outside the US, there is a critical need to reshore production of American-made textiles and to ensure more sustainable textile production. The United States Department of Agriculture plays an important role in supporting these efforts and revitalising the sustainable fibres industry in the US.” 

Data from the Textile Materials Market Report indicates that synthetic fibres made up around 65% of global fibre output in 2022, with polyester identified as the most prevalent type.  

While synthetic materials are known to release microfibres that contribute to pollution in water, soil, and air, natural fibres are characterised in Pingree’s letter as potentially having a smaller environmental impact.  

“As global fibre production continues to increase, it is critical to support the production and processing of additional plant-based fibre crops, such as hemp and flax, and animal-based fibres such as wool, alpaca, and leather, as the USDA considers reshoring Fiber production,” she added. 

In its letter, Pingree also requested several clarifications from the USDA regarding the current status and scope of federal support for natural fibres.  

Specifically, she sought details on:

• Existing programs and authorities that can support natural fibre production and processing;
• USDA data collection on fibre production in the United States, specifically whether the USDA Census of Agriculture includes data on fibre crops such as flax and hemp;
• Examples of USDA funding supporting natural fibre production and processing;
• Barriers to addressing existing gaps in the natural fibre textile supply chain;
• Whether USDA is evaluating approaches to reduce the use of synthetic pesticides in fibre production, and how such considerations are being incorporated into current or future programs;
• How the goals, tools, or findings of the Great American Cotton Plan may inform USDA’s strategies for other fibre crops and materials.